Camino de Santiago, Day 4 (Arzúa to Amenal) - Holy Saturday (16 miles)

Holy Saturday morning found us on the bus back to the entrance to Arzúa. Our hotel was not near the Camino itself and we needed to be taken back and forth. 

Kiko (Bobby) had jokingly suggested the bus might take us to the other end of town, but that was firmly rejected. 

Hotel staff found about 10 bottles of wine and could not find the swan that made off with Henry’s luggage in the middle of the night. 

Our boy felt better and joined us on the walk again.  Lots of horses today on the trails. 

Coffee up above Arzúa at a hamlet with a population of 4. Manny Hadad is their new mayor. 

People were getting tired and dealing with blisters and pain in their feet.  We hiked through eucalyptus and oak forest. 

One of our stops served a homemade beer named “La Peregrina”. Their tradition is that you finish the beer and sign your bottle

Lunch was one of the best ones yet. We ate a parrillada of grilled meats that was amazing and a very suggestive “Ensalada Rusa.”

A little bit of “Country Roads” may or may not have been sung after lunch. 

The peregrinos dispersed a bit. Willie was ahead to assure that he made it to church on time. Henry had “los pies encendíos.”  The last section was through a town that seemed almost apocalyptic. Evidence that someone lived there but everything was shuttered.  

We were able to enjoy beer and sodas as we arrived at the Hotel Amenal. Rushed showers and Tony was almost 15 minutes late for the bus to the church of Santa Eulalia de Arca. 

The parish priest of this tiny church welcomed “Don Guillermo” to concelebrate with him. The fire was blessed outside and we carried our candles in with us to hear the readings of the Vigil. Sague kept nodding off and almost set the pew on fire. And his shirt.  

I’ve not been able to find online when the church dates to.  (This parish is not right along the Camino, though close by.  There were many pilgrims at the mass.)

The church is quite elaborate, with the backdrop to the altar being a gold-edged shell. 

Highlights included the “Gloria” accompanied by the ringing of the steeple bell, and Willie’s powerful proclamation of the gospel.  Later we heard from Willie that, as he waited for the vigil to start outside, he jokingly blessed us and all the older people in the front crossed themselves. Also, Emilio got a dirty look from a Gallega for taking a picture, though he did not realize it at the time. 

Dinner back at the hotel (filete or merluza).  Dinner is where the different groups share their stories and pictures. I think I laughed until I cried each night. 

Early start for Sunday to arrive at Santiago for our lunch reservation.